Is laser hair removal suitable for olive and darker skin?

Laser hair removal is possible on olive skin, provided the right technology and settings are used. The difficulty is simple: olive or darker skin contains more melanin, which absorbs part of the energy intended for the hair, with a risk of burns or pigmentation marks. At the Centre Laser Valbonne, we treat skin types up to phototype IV. The free preliminary consultation with Dr Milène VERA is used to assess your skin and check that the treatment is suitable for you.

What is a phototype?

The phototype classifies skin into six categories according to how it reacts to the sun: from phototype I, very fair skin that burns easily, to phototype VI, black skin. The higher the phototype, the more melanin the skin contains. Yet the laser targets the melanin in the hair: on darker skin, the skin absorbs part of it too. The treatment therefore has to be adapted to the phototype.

Which technology for which skin?

The diode laser, which we mainly use, is suitable for fair skin as well as olive skin, up to phototype IV. The Nd:YAG laser is the safest for very dark skin, as its light is poorly absorbed by the melanin in the skin. The alexandrite laser, strongly absorbed by melanin, is not recommended on dark skin. At the Centre Laser Valbonne, the laser settings are defined by Dr VERA at the first session, according to your skin and hair.

What are the risks on olive skin?

The main risk is the appearance of brown marks after the session (hyperpigmentation). For people at risk, a cortisone-based cream for the 2 days following the session may be prescribed to prevent them. Light patches (hypopigmentation) are rarer and usually temporary. On the face, dark down on the cheeks also carries a risk of paradoxical hair growth: in that case, we advise against treatment.

What precautions should be taken before and after sessions?

On olive skin, sun protection is even more important. No session is possible if the area has been exposed to the sun in the previous two weeks, and very tanned skin must lighten before treatment resumes. Also avoid self-tanners and beta-carotene supplements. After the session, protect the area with SPF 50 sunscreen throughout the treatment course.

Frequently asked questions

Can someone with black skin have laser hair removal? Yes, with an Nd:YAG laser designed for hair removal, the safest option for very dark skin. At the Centre Laser Valbonne, we treat skin types up to phototype IV, so we do not offer treatment for phototypes V and VI. Dr VERA can advise you during a consultation.

Can facial down be treated on olive skin? Generally not. On dark down on the cheeks in a person with olive or dark skin, the risk of paradoxical hair growth (hairs stimulated instead of destroyed) is high: we therefore advise against treatment. Thick, dark hairs, such as those on the upper lip or chin, can however be treated.

Can laser hair removal lighten olive skin? When properly performed, the treatment does not change your complexion. A light patch may occasionally appear locally: it is usually temporary and fades within a few months.

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